Double sessions

After a long week of too much work and no ocean, I decided it was high time for a double session. Wavecast was dead on this time, bringing the first "real" south swell since last year to southern California shores. Living less than 5 miles in any direction from world class south facing surf spots doesn't suck.

I kicked it off around 830am at one of my favorite stand up paddle spots. Although inconsistent at times, the waves were cranking well overhead on outside sets. As usual a handful of my SUP friends were there ripping it up with me which makes for an even more enjoyable session. We all continue to challenge each other on bigger waves, taking off later, making more turns and trying to make sections that seemed impossible for us last year. One of the guys in our crew, Marcus, was flying through sections on a new C4. Honestly I have never seen an SUP this fast before. You can find the board here on the Waterman website http://store.c4waterman.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C4SUBVECTOR9-3.

Three times today in the morning session I tried to make sections only to be clobbered by an eye level lip as the bottom fell out from underneath me. Spinning and getting tossed at full speed in the spin cycle isn't usually my idea of a good time. The force of the water is enormous and trying to hold onto a paddle while a 50lb board is dragging you through whitewater is definitely a humbling experience. The great part about all of it is once you catch your breath and turn around, you get hammered by the 2nd, 3rd and 4th waves of the set. Nice. OK, back to sections...My 10'6 Ron House just didn't have the acceleration to fly through those enraged walls of white water barreling in front of me...so I thought. Marcus gave me some quick pointers, stepping back further to the tail of my board and working it like a short board I was able to gain more acceleration and make the sections. Talk about a break through! For all you guys that have been surfing all of your lives that might technique might appear obvious, for us rookies with only 3 years under our belts it is not.

What a great day! 1 session in the morning 1 session in the afternoon on BIG DAYS. That's how you have to roll when the swell is in!

Now to get that camera work going so you don't think I'm telling stories about overhead wave riding on a paddle board...

out.